Under the Hammer
Marion Fasel's Top Picks from Jewels and Watches of Distinction
Ahead of our Jewels and Watches of Distinction: An Impressive Private Collection auction on 11 June in New York, renowned jewelry historian Marion Fasel shares her top picks, spotlighting the artistry and symbolism of animal-inspired design. From Cartier’s iconic panthers to Bulgari’s playful angel fish, her selections reveal why these pieces remain among the most expressive and enduring in fine jewelry.
Read on to discover Marion Fasel’s highlights coming under the hammer.
Discovering the Distinctiveness of Animal Jewelry
Over my decades-long career as a jewelry historian, I’ve written about iconic bejeweled animals like Cartier’s panthers and David Webb’s zebras. In 2013, I authored the first book on Bulgari’s Serpenti Collection, working with the brand’s archivists in Rome. But it wasn’t until 2018 that I fully grasped the distinctiveness of animal jewelry as a category.
That year, the American Museum of Natural History in New York invited me to guest curate the inaugural jewelry exhibition in the renovated Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals. I chose an animal theme as a tribute to the museum’s 150th anniversary.
Beautiful Creatures and a Deepening Affection
As I researched the symbolism and historical origins of the designs, my affection for the animals grew. It deepened further as I wrote about the 100 or so pieces I gathered for the exhibition catalogue of Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animal Kingdom.
A Personal Connection
In January 2021, after the exhibition was postponed for the second time due to the pandemic, I visited the museum’s safe room with the registrar and began talking to the animals. “You’ll have your moment in the spotlight soon,” I told them. “The important thing is that you’re all together for this hibernation.”
I had never spoken to a piece of jewelry before. I never thought a diamond bracelet needed to hear from me. But animal jewels often have a face. They always have a spirit. That’s what I love most about them.
Lot 2
BUCCELLATI: AN 18K TRI-COLOR GOLD BROOCH AND EARRINGS SET
Symbols of beauty and new beginnings or metamorphosis, butterflies are among the most ubiquitous creatures in the animal jewelry kingdom. Creatively, the wings of a butterfly function as a canvas for jewelers to make a unique statement.
These enchanting butterflies showcase Buccellati’s unrivaled goldwork. They feature surface details in pink, white, and yellow gold. The effect makes it appear as though the sun is reflecting off the insects' wings.
Lot 16
BULGARI: A PAIR OF DIAMOND 'NATURALIA' EARCLIPS, ITALY
During the 1920s, when fishing was a popular sport among society, the largest school of fish were produced in jewelry. While those designs were relatively realistic depictions of a big catch, the fish swimming around in jewelry since then are usually imaginative interpretations of various species.
These angel fish earrings from the Naturalia ‘Mamma Pesce’ collection, which debuted in 1991, look equal parts ‘pesce’ and Bulgari’s bold signature style. They put a smile on my face every time I look at them which was clearly the intention of the Italian jewelers who cheekily added "Mamma" to the title of the designs.
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Lot 151
CARTIER: A PAIR OF EMERALD 'PANTHÈRE' EARRINGS, FRANCE
One of the sleekest beasts in jewelry, panthers have been prowling around Cartier’s design studio for more than 100 years. The unofficial mascot of the House, the cat has been reimagined in countless designs over time.
Some of Cartier’s panthers look slightly sinister. Others exude glamour. These thick hoops from the late 20th century feature playful panthers peering over the top. The personal Spanish inscription on the reverse of the jewels, “Te adoro mi amor Bumi Bumi,” which translates “I adore you my love, Bumi Bumi,” makes them all the more charming.
Lot 5
CARTIER: AN EMERALD AND ENAMEL BROOCH, FRANCE
The large African mammals, that stampeded into fine jewelry collections in the 1960s and continued to roam in the 1970s, reflected an interest and concern about the wildlife. At the time, high-profile conservationists Peter Beard and Jane Goodall were fixtures in the news and helped raise awareness about the issues.
During this era, Cartier created a series of giraffe brooches, including this one. The tall, elegant mammal was positioned to look like it was in motion. In 1979, a pair of the giraffes were photographed for a memorable magazine editorial in a setting that resembled the African plains at sunset.
Lot 174, 175, and 176
AN 18-KARAT WHITE GOLD, DIAMOND AND SAPPHIRE "DOVE LES OISEAUX LIBERES" BROOCH, EARRINGS and RING, CARTIER
Symbols of glamour and freedom, birds have continuously soared through jewelry, particularly French jewelry over the last 150 years. The French affinity for birds feels akin to their appreciation of couture. A bird's feathers provide ample opportunity for glamorous bejeweled finery.
Over the decades, Cartier has made nearly as many variations of birds as panthers. These lyrical 21st-century “Dove Les Oiseaux Libres” jewels feature specially cut sapphires in the wings that really make the designs take flight.
The jewels are also a poetic response to the famous caged bird brooch that Cartier’s legendary Creative Director, Jeanne Toussaint, placed in the boutique window during the Occupation of Paris in World War II. Symbols of peace, the title of these jewels adds to the meaning essentially translating to "Doves, the Free Birds."
Jewels and Watches of Distinction:
An Impressive Private Collection
11 June 2025 | New York
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