Emily Waterfall

What do you do at Bonhams?

I am an Auctioneer and Director, Head of Department for Jewelry based in Los Angeles where we hold several live and online-only auctions throughout the year.

We are currently in a period of consignment, seeking beautiful pieces to offer in our upcoming auctions. So many estates tell a story of the collector and each is different, we can truly sell it all at Bonhams and have a robust international market that is looking to us for standout jewelry.

Where are you from? And what inspired you to go into the auction world? 

I grew up in both in San Diego, California and Bozeman, Montana. Before jewelry, I developed an interest in the art world thanks to my mother, who bravely shuttled myself and my five older siblings to museums at a young age. Several years later, she and I traveled to France together, and my love of art grew profoundly when visiting Musée d'Orsay and Claude Monet’s gardens in Giverny. The art world and the world of auctions have always been on my radar.

What was your first job? 

After I graduated college, I moved to London where I interned in an auction house. From the first day I arrived, I was completely enamored with the whole experience. I remember working incredibly hard to archive past sales – which involved cutting and gluing on actual cardstock for hours. This was, of course, prior to auction records being readily available online.

Name one of your triumphs? 

My latest triumph was the collection from Jill and Byron Crawford which included over 300 lots of art jewelry from artists such as Art Smith, William Spratling, Ed Wiener, Charles Loloma, Betty Cooke, and Pablo Picasso to name a few. The sale was the first of its kind in terms of a single-owner art jewelry sale and in that it sold over 98% of the items and reached new records for many of the artists.

Thinking of selling your jewellery or collection? Submit it online for a free auction estimate.

What has changed in the business since you first started? 

The rise of online sales has certainly been the biggest change as buyers can now purchase high-end jewelry with the mere click of a button. It is quite extraordinary that a buyer in South Africa can bid on a $50,000 diamond ring being sold in Los Angeles while being outbid by another buyer in Hong Kong within a five-minute span. There’s also a lot less cutting and gluing involved.

What is your strength as a specialist? 

Jewelry is a very personal means of expression, something which carries a person’s warmth when it’s worn and is often given as a gift of love or on a special occasion. I love learning the personal histories of a client’s collection and sharing in their passion for exquisite things. I also enjoy researching the history of jewelry firms and artists and seeing all the stunning drawings and archives they kept throughout the generations.

Do you have a hidden talent? 

My kids would say baking and finding everything they’ve lost. My husband would say starting a great dance party.

Which piece of jewelry has changed your life? 

On occasion, we find jewels by French jewelry houses that take my breath away. Last year, we sold a stunning Gold and Ruby Butterfly Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels which was made in France in around 1937. The sculptural brooch came alive when I held it in my hands – with the wings fluttering and light flickering on the polished gold surfaces. It transcended its purpose of being a brooch and presented itself as a work of art. At auction, it surpassed the estimate of $10,000 - 12,000 and sold for $81,325.

What is important to know about consigning jewelry?

You never know what you have until you ask an expert. It is amazing to me what people have hidden away and you should always ask an expert to see what the value is and to learn the history. We love meeting new clients and enjoy fielding questions.

Emily Waterfall can be reached on emily.waterfall@bonhams.com or follow her on Instagram at @waterfallatauction.

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