Fine and rare

When Gérard Basset died in 2019, he was recognised as the World’s Best Sommelier – having long since become a Master of Wine and Master Sommelier. In New York this May, Bonhams is collaborating with the foundation set up in his name to host a tasting with Burgundy as a focus with two of the great names in the wine industry: Jancis Robinson M.W. and Amayès Aouli.

Why is this partnership with the Gérard Basset Foundation significant for Bonhams?

Amayès: Gérard Basset was a remarkable person, and the foundation carrying his name plays an incredible role in promoting diversity and inclusion in the industry. It was important to me that my first major event since being appointed Global Head of Wines & Spirits for Bonhams was one devoted to charity in the wine world. It is an amazing legacy to help carry on.

Jancis: I am proud to be a trustee of the GBF, as I was a friend, supporter and huge admirer of this exceptional man. I have long campaigned for greater diversity of personnel in the wine world – both in terms of those who work in it, and those who consume this magic liquid. So the aims of the Foundation truly align with mine.

Why Burgundy as the region of focus for this tasting?

Jancis: Burgundy is the most luxurious, sensual and intriguing wine in the world. In fact, it was a 1959 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses, which lit the flame for me and started me out on my nearly 50-year career as a wine writer. Just one sniff, and I realised there was a beautiful combination of intellectual stimulation and sensual pleasure in the glass.

Amayès: Burgundy is home to more than 3,000 wine producers, 1,247 distinct climates and, of course, many vintages. As one of the most prestigious and complex wine regions in the world, it offers infinite opportunities to enrich your understanding of fine wine. Having the pleasure to hear about Burgundy from Jancis, one of the very best wine writers, is a dream for every wine lover – no matter what stage of their journey they have reached.

Why are the great wines of Burgundy appreciated by so many people all over the world?

Jancis: Probably partly because they are made in such tiny quantities, so the greater wines of Burgundy truly are rarities – special treats that few of us, even us wine professionals, get to taste frequently.

Amayès: Burgundy is perhaps the most terroir-conscious wine region in the world. It offers an incredible range of flavours, aromas and experiences. Many Burgundy vineyards are relatively small and family-owned, so production is limited. That means the wines – particularly the great Burgundies – become real rarities that are highly sought-after. On top of that, our collective taste has shifted, with people looking to drink wines with finesse and elegance.

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What are some of the changes that you have seen in Burgundy recently?

Jancis: There is a dramatic shift happening in Burgundy today, with a new generation taking charge in many a cellar. When I started out, it was common for vignerons simply to do exactly what their parents (almost always their fathers) had done. They hardly travelled outside their village. Today’s Burgundy producers have studied the principles of viticulture and oenology and, importantly, have first-hand experience of other wine regions, often on the other side of the world. Their wines today benefit from a combination of Burgundy’s centuries of tradition together with deep-seated, international experience. Some of the earliest adopters of organic and biodynamic methods in the vineyard were Burgundians, and the wines from this part of France are some of the most truly hand-crafted in the world. We visitors love the way that, unlike in so many other famous wine regions, producers get their hands and boots dirty.

Amayès: I absolutely agree with Jancis. Burgundy wines now have a significant influence on winemaking around the world. The region’s focus on terroir, its meticulous vineyard management and detailed attention to winemaking and innovation have inspired winemakers globally. The region is evolving rapidly too, in part due to the prices of the wines (and consequently the land), which have recently skyrocketed. This carries contradictory sentiments for the great winemaking families of Burgundy, from the joy in seeing their wines internationally recognised to the fear of losing part of their soul. The balance is a subtle one. Perhaps the most striking aspect of all this evolution, though, is that Burgundy maintains a consistent quality, which is impressive.

Is there anything specific or personal you would like to say about Burgundy?

Jancis: Just that I can’t wait to share these treasures with American connoisseurs under the auspices of an ambitious new entrant in the New York wine auction scene.

Amayès: This is a region close to my heart (and to my palate), which is full of interesting winemakers. It is a unique place on Earth, with a rich geology and history. I would encourage everyone to visit this special part of the world.

Christian Holthausen has written for Decanter, The Guardian, Meininger’s Wine Business International and The World of Fine Wine.