Collecting 101

An Introduction

The functional and decorative nature of Japanese armour is representative of its Eastern heritage and traditions, owing much of its craftsmanship to the development of Japanese metal work. The armour would cover its warrior from head to toe in overlapping layers of iron, leather, precious and semi-precious metals, and silk. Steeped in cultural history, Japanese Armour highlights the civil unrest that permeated the country during the Sengoku period (1467 - 1615), until the economic growth and social order of the Edo period brought political stability and reform. Japanese Armour has become a symbol of the Samurai spirit, with the reputation as aristocratic warriors securing a place in our modern imaginations. Classic movies such as the Star Wars franchise appear to have taken inspiration from the shiny black helmets with flaring neck guards and solid plated body armour.

1.

Early Beginnings

The traditions associated with the Samurai class dissolved over 150 years ago yet the iconic reputation for Japanese Military strength still exists today. The earliest extant examples of armor in Japan have been excavated from tombs and are thought to date to around the 1st to 2nd century and to have originated from China and Korea. The armours defining characteristics, manifested in the materials, and the numerous technical advancements and modifications, are a result of the changing circumstances in warfare that took place during the country’s permanent state of civil unrest. This can be seen in the large iron plates riveted together by smiths to adopt rudimentary hinges. Known as tanko, the original armours were designed for fighting on foot with swords, spears, and bows and arrows. Much of the armour we associate with the Samurai style today dates back to the 8th Century, a period known as the Heian (794 – 1185), which marked the rise of the Samurai warrior clans.

2.

The Rise of the Samurai

By the 10th Century, horseback was the common mode of transport in battle. Archery became the weapon of choice and the style of armour changed to meet the agile demands of this new warfare. The Cuirass, a piece of armour used to protect the torso, was constructed of smaller scales covered in lacquer and laced together in rows of silk. Through historical periods, the garment would feature varied constructions including lamellae or full-plates. These adjustments allowed greater mobility when on horse-back as warriors would discard arrows. To shield from enemy fire, larger shoulder guards were loosely attached so the warrior could still use their bow to attack. Warriors helmets, known as the kabuto, were traditionally made of iron, mounted with wide spreading and tiered guards to protect the neck. The separate angle of the scales were designed to redirect both blows to the head as well as arrows. The mechanical success led to this style remaining prominent in the noble elite for hundreds of years. By the 15th-century, the traditional boxy o-yoroi style of armor was abandoned for the more flexible haramaki (close-fitting cuirass) which allowed ease of movement on foot. The colour variations in the lacing and accoutrements was a signature characteristic of the Samurai’s flare for style. The lacing was often complex in design and determined by the wealth of the warrior who wore it.

3.

Modern Warfare

Between the 16th – 18th century, firearms were introduced into battle as a result of trading with Europe. The military elite embraced advancements to provide the safest and highest standard of garments. With increased demand for soldiers, fighting reverted back to foot instead of horseback and modern armours known as tosei-gusoku were introduced. These garments were recognised for their lamellar construction, where the cuirass closely wrapped the soldiers body. This armour style was popularised by Date Masamune, the regional ruler of Japan’s Azuchi–Momoyama period. The weight of the armour rested on the thighs, rather than the shoulders, which allowed for longer durations on the battlefield. The armour materials were far simpler, meaning less time was needed to create the volume of garments required during this period. The final development of Japanese Armour came in the 17th century when the country settled into an era of peace. Armor smiths now focused on producing impressive armours that showcased their talents and the owner’s requisite wealth. Complex and technically challenging works with repousse designs subsequently began to appear.

4.

Authenticity

One can encounter many pitfalls when collecting Japanese armour. There are numerous questionable fabrications that find their way into the marketplace. Careful inspection of the individual parts is therefore essential. It is important to always consider the following; Is the metal hardware solid or has it been punched out by a modern machine? Is the helmet weighty? Are the scales substantial? Are they lacquered? Or do they appear to be painted? Are the fabrics and lacing similar throughout? These are all questions to ask yourself or a specialist.

5.

On the Market

Armour is still very popular among collectors, particularly in Europe and the United States. And as might be expected, the supply of original, matching suits in Japan has dried up considerably. In the past, previously unseen suits of armour from the storehouses of wealthy rural families would regularly make their way to urban centers in Tokyo or Osaka for auction. Recently that trend has slowed, as the sources seem to have been largely tapped. The fact that it is becoming more difficult to find complete matching armours means that the relative prices are increasing. There also appears to be a slight correlation between Hollywood and the armour market. It is apparent, according to our specialists that when Samurai films are popular at the theatres, there is an increase in the demand for armour.

Curious to learn more about Japanese armour? Contact jeff.olson@bonhams.com with auction inquiries or follow along on Instagram @bonhamsjapanese