Collecting 101

Buccellati

For over a century, Buccellati has created fine jewellery prized for its intricacy and opulence. It began in 1919, when goldsmith Mario Buccellati opened a store in Milan and quickly won admiration for his Renaissance-style pieces. He looked to Italian Old Masters for inspiration, emulating the techniques of Botticelli and Donatello, who were goldsmiths before they became artists. As the business blossomed, boutiques opened across Italy, New York and Paris, and Mario’s artisan techniques were passed down through the generations. The business has stayed in the family, and continues to be characterised by an artistic use of gold, diamonds and precious gemstones.

Bulgari

This jewellery house has long been synonymous with glamour, however it emerged from humble beginnings. The brand was born out of adversity by Sotirio Bulgari, a Greek silversmith who was displaced by war. Bulgari originally set up his business in Naples, where he was robbed of everything, then started again in Rome in 1884. Here, Bulgari and his sons opened several boutiques, selling souvenirs to the city’s wealthy tourists, before focusing their efforts on fine jewellery.

During the 20th century, the Bulgari style developed and became more distinct. In the 1930s, the Trombino (‘little trumpet’) ring achieved instant popularity; in the 1940s, the now iconic Serpenti design was introduced - here Bulgari adopted the ‘tubogas’ technique, which was traditionally used to make flexible coverings for gas pipes, to create innovative serpent-like wrap-around watches, bracelets and rings. This technique was perfected in the 1960s and 70s. It was around this time that Bulgari broke away from French jewellery fashion trends and started using bold coloured gemstones and enamels alongside different metal tones. In the 1980s, the paved roads of Rome inspired the Parentesi design of interlocked metal and modular jewels which has since become a signature Bulgari style.

Part of the brand was sold to LVHM in 2011, but Bulgari has stayed true to its Roman roots, continuing to design pieces that echo the art and architecture of the Eternal City.

Faraone

The origins of this niche Italian brand date back to 1860, and it enjoyed great success in producing jewellery for noble clientele including the Savoy royal family. Raffaele Faraone opened the first shop in 1947, and was joined in 1960 by Guido Settepassi, who came from a long line of celebrated Florentine jewellers. While Raffaele died just two years later, Settepassi kept the name in honour of his friend. The brand specialised in 1950s-style pieces, such as diamond bouquet brooches, which were favoured by stars including Maria Callas and Ava Gardner.  In 1989, Faraone partnered with Tiffany, and was granted exclusive import and distribution rights in Italy. Settepassi’s son, Cesare, went on to become European Vice President of Tiffany until 2010, when he left to focus on the family business. Faraone was revered for its high-quality gems and diamonds until it ceased trading in 2016.

Fasano

In 1928, Mario Fasano opened the eponymous Gioielleria Fasano under the arcades of the Via Roma in Turin. Here, he made fine jewellery using traditional techniques, learnt from Parisian craftsmen. In 1932, Fasano married Stella Piovano and the pair developed the atelier’s signature style. Combining gold with steel, enamel and gemstones, they made one-of-a-kind pieces inspired by nature. Many of their pieces use high quality gemstones in unusual cuts to create organic shapes, from flowers and leaves to animals. Their son, Dario, inherited the firm in 1968, and partnered with his mother to continue the family tradition. The company closed upon Dario’s retirement in 2013.

Janesich

Janesich is best known for its dazzling Art Deco jewellery and accessories, but the story of this jewellery dynasty actually begins a century earlier. In 1835, Trieste was a busy trading port and tourist destination for the Austrian elite, and it was here that accomplished goldsmith Leopoldo Janesich opened his first shop. Initially, he produced classic 19^th-century floral designs, setting diamonds in gold-backed silver. As his prestige grew, he developed his designs into belle epoque jewels, in which diamonds were mounted on platinum in beautifully delicate patterns. The firm expanded across Italy, and, under the direction of Leopoldo’s son, Giovanni, opened on Rue de Lafayette in Paris in 1896. Supported in turn by his sons, Leopoldo continued to advance the business and collaborated with many esteemed jewellery houses. In the 1920s and 30s, Janesich was at the height of its powers, participating in prestigious fairs and receiving Royal Warrants. With the hardship caused by World War II, the company scaled back its operations and returned its focus to Trieste, where it all began. The business is still based there, led by the sixth generation of the Janesich family.

Massoni

The Massoni story begins with Pietro Romano Massoni, who was registered as a goldsmith, silversmith and watchmaker in 1790. Like many Roman artisans during this era, he worked mainly for the Vatican. Pietro’s craftmanship has been passed down through many generations of the Massoni family, and continually enhanced by new expertise. His great-grandson, Torquato, was a renowned pearl expert and opened the family’s first shop in Rome’s Via dei Serpenti in 1880. His son, Giuseppi, inherited the business after completing his apprenticeship in Paris, and married Lina Cusi, daughter of the esteemed jeweller Annibale Cusi. The style of Massoni’s jewellery has changed as each generation has made their mark, from the classical micro-mosaics and cameos of the 19^th century, to the quintessential diamond jewels of the 1950s and the extravagant designs of the 1970s. Throughout, the Massoni name has been associated with the best quality diamonds. Since 2006, the business has been located on Via Margutta, where it is run by Giuseppi’s three grandchildren.

Nardi

In a corner of St. Mark’s Square stands Nardi Gioielleria, one of Venice’s foremost jewellery boutiques. Founded in 1925 by Giulio Nardi, this family-run firm prides itself on its ‘refined Venetian aesthetic’. From his workshop behind the Piazza, Nardi designed fine jewellery inspired by both the city’s culture and the traditional techniques of Venetian goldsmiths. In the 1930s, he developed his signature piece: the Moretto brooch which was seen on the lapels of several Hollywood stars during the ‘Dolce Vita’ years. Today, the boutique remains a Venetian stalwart, and is run by Giulio’s grandson, Dr Alberto Nardi.

Petochi

In 1884, cousins Alessandro and Giuseppe Petochi set up a goldsmith atelier in Rome. Twenty years later, under the patronage of Prince Alessandro Torlonia, they moved to a prestigious salon space in the heart of the city and the firm’s fortunes grew. They became immensely popular among European royal families, who coveted the jewellers’ exceptional pearls and micro-mosaic expertise. Petochi’s artistry continued to attract wealthy clients through the decades, including international celebrities such as Audrey Hepburn. The house has carried its legacy of exquisite craftmanship into the 21^st century, under the direction of fifth-generation jeweller Alberto Petochi.

Ravasco

Alfredo Ravasco was a multi-talented artisan with an original vision. A sculptor, goldsmith and jeweller, he joined his father’s Milan-based business in 1922 and began introducing his innovative designs. Having completed an apprenticeship under the master chiseller, Eugenio Bellosio, Ravasco recognised the potential in materials previously shunned by fine jewellers. He crafted Art Deco jewels and objects of vertu from stones such as malachite, lapis lazuli and amber. In the 1920s and 30s, Ravasco presented his creations at jewellery exhibitions to widespread acclaim; he was featured in the Venice Biennale and appointed director of the Scuola del Corallo di Torre del Greco. In 1943, Ravasco’s atelier was bombed and he retired to Lago Maggiore, where he remained until his death in 1958. With no next of kin, he left all his possessions to the Stelline Girls’ Orphanage in Milan.

Vhernier

The youngest jewellery house on our list, Vhernier was founded in 1984. Designer Angela Camurati collaborated with Carlo Ciarli and Roberto Boldi, and the trio set up a goldsmith’s workshop in Valenza, the heartland of Italian jewellery manufacturing. Under Camurati’s creative direction, Vhernier’s craftsmen explored the possibilities of their raw materials, and created innovative, contemporary designs. The brand’s signature technique, the ‘Transparenze’, layers pure rock crystal over opaque coloured stones, resulting in a dramatic optical effect. Vhernier continues to push the bounds of Italian jewellery-making from its workshop in Valenza, overseen by Camurati.