Collecting 101

1.

Lapis Lazuli

The king of stones and the stone of kings, semiprecious Lapis Lazuli has been treasured since antiquity for its intense blue colour. Incorporated into jewellery, sculpture, horology, decorative objects and paint pigments, the vibrancy of Lapis Lazuli has captured the imagination of humans for centuries.

The eye-catching qualities of the stone have been put to great use by manufacturers such as Piaget, Chopard, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. The 70s and 80s in particular saw the heyday of semi-precious stone dials, and the Piaget Beta 21 is an interesting example of combining the conflicting arms of Haute Horology and the modern era of the quartz movement.

2.

Meteorite

Meteorites have a fascinating appeal for collectors across all categories. The otherworldly nature and origin of these billion-year-old rocks from outer space make for truly arresting dials that are, literally, out of this world. Rolex in particular have utilised this incredible and finite material in their Daytona, Day-Date and more recently in 2019 their GMT ranges.

There are three types of meteorites: the ferrous type, primarily composed of iron and nickel, is the most commonly used to produce watch components. Instantly recognisable for its geometric striations, the Widmanstätten pattern is naturally occurring on meteorite dials, making each one completely unique.

It is believed that much of the meteorite used by Rolex derives from the Gibeon meteorite in Namibia. The Gibeon, discovered in 1838, is now protected by law from further harvesting meaning the supply already in the hands of watchmakers is of a finite amount.

3.

Coral

Creamy whites, blush pinks, vibrant oranges, rich reds - coral can be found in many shades and is the common name given to Corallium rubrum.

Unlike other stones and minerals, coral is an organic gemstone formed by living organisms in tropical and subtropical waters. These organisms leave branch-like, skeletal structures behind when they die, which have been used in jewellery, sculpture and works of art for centuries.

The durable nature and intense colours of coral appealed to many watch designers in the 1970s and 80s, and many unusual timepieces can be found from this period. Makers such as Piaget, Chopard and to a lesser extent Rolex often appear when searching for hard stone dials, often using coral and other stones to accentuate their dress watches.

As coral is usually formed into cabochons, it is more often found on the bezel of wristwatches where it is easier to apply and form. As such, full coral dials are a rare find and make for really striking pieces.

4.

Malachite

Rich shades of green, interspersed with swirling and concentric veins of paler green, makes Malachite instantly recognisable. It is usually found in copper ore deposits, which are responsible for Malachite's dark green colour. For such a vivid and eye-catching stone, it is remarkably more accessible than other less assuming stones. This is in large part because there are higher quantities of the raw stone naturally available and it is often harvested as a by-product of the copper industry.

Whilst Malachite's low level of hardiness provides a distinct advantage when initially shaping the dials, its soft and fibrous nature means that poor handling of the material can lead to it cracking and chipping if knocked. However, with a watch malachite is relatively safe, as the dial is anchored in place and effectively cushioned by the case around it. Similar to Lapis Lazuli, Malachite was incorporated in many experimental designs from the 1970s and 80s, each one with its own unique dial.

5.

Mother of Pearl

To this day, Mother-of-Pearl has remained one of the most consistently used and popular materials for watch dials, with manufacturers at all levels incorporating the material into their designs. From full dial single sheets to intricately placed segments, Mother of Pearl is wonderfully effective in adding depth to a watch.

Almost any shelled mollusc can, by natural processes, produce some kind of "pearl" when an irritating microscopic object becomes trapped within the mollusc's mantle folds and the conditions are correct. To protect themselves from these microscopic irritants the molluscs form an iridescent substance commonly known as nacre which coats the inner layer of the shell. It is these layers that are then harvested as Mother-of-Pearl.

Far more available than pearls, Mother-of-Pearl has been used to decorate precious objects for centuries. Nowadays Mother of Pearl appears regularly in watch dials from brands such as Rolex, Breguet and Patek Philippe to Harry Winston and Audemars Piguet to name but a few.

The nature of these materials, and many others, make hardstone dials truly unique and characterful, as well as impervious to change over time. Whilst manufacturers today still experiment with semi-precious materials, they do so on a much smaller scale, preferring enamel to hardstone to create the same vivid hues with a more controlled design. As such, these watches tend to trickle through auctions rather than appear in high volumes, and each one is generally different to the last.

When it comes to purchasing a watch with an unusual dial, always look for cracks in the material. Whilst these can sometimes be invisible to the naked eye, once cracked these fractures cannot really be repaired, just stabilised.

Thinking of selling your hardstone dial watches? Submit your piece online for a free auction estimate.