Collecting 101

1.

Authentication, authentication, authentication

A quick search on eBay brings up hundreds of results for sellers who are passing off imitation Birkins and Kellys as the real deal. As tempting as it might be to shop online, our specialists always recommend buying from a trusted reseller who can prove a piece is authentic.

There are countless ways to check the authenticity of a bag. While everything may seem genuine on the surface, a specialist can pick out details that immediately give the game away.

The leathers should be of the best quality, the stitching immaculate, and the font on the label should be absolutely right. It’s also important to look for a serial number or date code, as bags by Hermès and Chanel always include the year they were made as well as the style name.

2.

Do your research

Before you buy or sell, it’s always good to know something about the brand and model you’re interested in. Books like Bringing Home the Birkin by Michael Tonello, and visiting collections and exhibitions of vintage fashion at places like the V&A in London and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York are a great first step. However, going into your nearest Chanel or Louis Vuitton and looking at the bags gives you a chance to observe each brand's unique elements and craftsmanship first-hand.

It’s really important that you also look inside a handbag; brands like Gucci and Louis Vuitton were using a certain kind of coating in the 80s and 90s which meant that if a bag was left in a warm place for a long time it could disintegrate and become quite tacky.

3.

Looking after your bag

As well as keeping them safe in the outside world, it’s important to follow a few top tips when storing your bag at home.

According to Meg, you should “take care not to overstuff them, so keep them in their dustbags when they’re not being used (and if you’ve lost the dustbag, use a pillow case). Secondly, stuff them with acid free tissue paper to keep the shape.”

She also advises buffing your bag once in a while with a microfibre cloth to keep it looking fresh. “You should also be very careful with the hardware,” adds Meg, “for example if your bag has a chain, like most Chanel shoulder bags, you should make sure it isn’t sitting on the leather when it’s in storage as you can end up with ugly indents. It’s just little things you have to be careful of, but they’re usually fairly robust items.” 

4.

Wear them... but be careful!

Unlike paintings or sculptures, the joy of collecting handbags is that they can be taken out into the world and worn, although they do require an extra level of care if you want them to retain their value.

5.

Restoration

While it’s important to keep your bag out of harm’s way, if something does happen it’s reassuring to know that these pieces can be restored by the very craftsmen who made them. With big brands like Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Hermès, you can take a bag to be restored as long as it’s less than 30 years old. This process can take some time and comes at a cost, but will guarantee your bag will be returned to you in perfect condition.

For minor scuffs, you may be able to clean your handbag yourself, using a soft cloth and specialised leather cleaner, but proceed with caution and do a patch test on an inconspicuous section of your bag first. As Meg advises, “prevention is usually better than the cure—don't store lose pens or makeup inside your bags, and make sure water bottles are tightly fastened if you carry them!”