Collecting 101
Emeralds

Instantly recognisable by its deep green colouring, emeralds have fascinated cultures around the globe for millions of years, evoking spirituality, glamour and mystery.
Here, we offer a short introduction to the gemstone, illustrated with highlights coming up in Knightsbridge Jewels on 11 July.
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1.
Colour
The majority of emeralds on the market are clarity enhanced, typically to disguise inclusions within the stone. The traditional process involves filling the natural inclusions with cedar oil. However, some emeralds receive resin instead of oil for clarity enhancement.
Gemmological labs grade the treatment of clarity enhancement as: none, insignificant, minor, moderate, and significant. The less treatment used and the richer the natural colour, the more valuable the gemstone.
To come across an emerald with no clarity enhancement is extremely rare. They can be harder to source than a D colour, flawless clarity diamond of the same size!
2.
A Stone for the Stars
Elizabeth Taylor had a great love for emeralds, with an amazing collection including an emerald and diamond pendant, necklace and ear pendants, all bought at Bulgari in Rome. An emerald pendant necklace owned by the actress sold in 2011 for $6.5 million.
Today, we still see this opulent jewel grace the Hollywood red carpets and collected by gem connoisseurs globally.
3.
On the Market
In recent years, Bonhams has secured a number of impressive results for emeralds at auction. A Pair of Emerald and Diamond Earrings, weighing 5.43 and 5.26 carats and with 'no oil' sold in Hong Kong on 21 June 2021 for HK$2,500,000 inc. premium. An Emerald Ring, weighing 5.14 carats sold for HK$627,500 inc. premium last November. Bonhams have also sold an impressive 11.01 carat Emerald Ring, mounted by David Webb, for HK$5,460,000 inc. premium.
All of the aforementioned lots feature Colombian emeralds. Whilst the first known emerald mines were discovered from as early as the third century BC in Egypt, Colombian emerald gems have been highly admired and collected globally. These fine deposits of emerald were first discovered in Colombia in the 16th century.
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Lot 202. Emerald and Diamond Brooch. Estimate: £10,000 - £15,000.
Lot 202. Emerald and Diamond Brooch. Estimate: £10,000 - £15,000.

Lot 204. Emerald And Diamond Necklace/Bracelet. Estimate: £20,000 - £30,000.
Lot 204. Emerald And Diamond Necklace/Bracelet. Estimate: £20,000 - £30,000.
Register to bid in Knightsbridge Jewels
Our auction on 11 July in London features jewellery by Bulgari, Boodles, Van Cleef & Arpels and more.
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