Collecting 101

1.

What is a Diving Watch?

A diving watch is one that can be worn whilst underwater, though the depth that the watch can withstand will always depend on that particular watch's design. Diving watches generally have a water resistance mark on the back of the watch case or on the dial, indicating whether it’s merely showerproof or can be used to explore the depths of the oceans.

These measurements are given in units of Standard Atmospheric Pressure (ATM), Bars or Metres. For scuba diving the minimum rating you really need is 200m/20 bar/20ATM; for the more adventurous 300m/30 bar/30ATM plus will ensure your watch survives the trip.

"Rolex is known
for dominating
this field historically,
and today..."

2.

A Very Brief History of Diving Watches

Rolex introduced the first waterproof watch in 1926 with the creation of the Oyster. This model has been coveted ever since, with its signature hermetically sealed case protecting the movement within from moisture. However, it was Omega that lay claim to having the first commercially available diving watch tested to withstand subaquatic depths.

Launched in 1932, the Omega Marine was the first watch to be validated at a depth exceeding 70 metres. This model overcame two major challenges facing water-resistant watches: firstly, how to create a good and robust seal, and secondly, how to do so with a square form watch.

3.

Diving Watches & The World of Horology

The popularity of diving – both recreationally and commercially – has influenced many of the design features we see in everyday contemporary watches. For example, luminous hour markers that show the time in the dark are vital for divers when light levels are so low. Other features include screw down crowns, which stop water from getting into the movement; calibrated bezels that only move in one direction, used for calculating oxygen supplies; and flip-lock bracelet extensions for allowing the watch to fit over a wetsuit.

The Rolex Sea Dweller 2000, in particular, was one of the first watches to employ a gas-escape valve on the band of the case, which allows the interior of a watch to decompress and avoids damage. The one-way valve automatically releases built up gas from inside the case when the diver rises from the deep sea environment, without which the watch would be in danger of popping the seals.

4.

The Brands to Collect

Rolex is known for dominating this field both historically and today. Their diving models such as the Submariner, Sea Dweller and Deep Sea regularly sell for strong prices at auction however, there are other diving watches that are equally as interesting.

These range from well-known models such as the Omega Seamaster and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, to lesser-known pieces such as the Bathy 50 by Favre-Leuba, the Nivada Chronomaster Aviator Sea Dive and the Doxa Sub 300. Dating from the 1960s and 70s, these models demonstrate how creative and competitive the market for diving watches was during this period, with each brand striving to provide a more robust and useful timepiece.

5.

Journeys of Discovery

Watches nearly always have a story behind them and diving watches are no exception. Divers from the 60s and 70s were often working at the forefront of exploration in their various fields, and the dangerous nature of their jobs, in environments such as oil fields, means that these watches are often part of a fascinating narrative. Vintage diving watches are particularly desirable when they come with original photos, diving logbooks and period diving ephemera. In particular, the collaboration between the world-famous French diving company COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertise) and Rolex has produced several of the most popular vintage diving watches.

In 2017, Bonhams sold a rare Rolex Submariner COMEX with a host of merchandise amassed by the original owner over the course of his distinguished diving career. The accompaniments included a still-functioning COMEX engraved Zippo lighter and group of COMEX golf tees; the watch and its collection of accessories sold for £60,000 inc. premium.

6.

Military Style

Since then the market for COMEX timepieces has rocketed with a fantastic example selling in 2022, lot offered by the former Comex diver, Graham Rowley. Along with 11 log books which chart his underwater adventures and celebrated diving career, for an exceptional price of £183,000 inc. premium.

"Vintage diving watches are particularly desirable when they come with original photos, logbooks diving ephemera.

COMEX watches are probably only trumped by one other category of diving watches: military Submariners provided to the Royal Navy. Over the years Bonhams has offered a great selection of these timepieces, each with its own fascinating story.