Cocktail Rings

1.

The History of Cocktail Rings

The cocktail ring is the ultimate piece of statement jewellery. Oversized and ostentatious, these rings have a rebellious streak that can be traced back to their origins in the prohibition-era United States. In the 1920s, speakeasies and underground parties broke out across America to get around the drinking ban, and cocktails were created to get around the bitter taste of bootlegged liquor.

Cocktail rings are so-called because they were worn by the glamorous women who attended these secret soirées and wished to draw attention to the illicit drink in their hand. Typically featuring a huge precious gemstone in a high setting, these rings were not-so-subtle symbols of wealth, status, and new-found female independence. A century later, the cocktail ring remains a shining staple of any jewellery collection.

2.

Trends

While statement jewellery has been worn for millennia, it was rare that rings were the focus of attention, particularly rings that didn’t bear symbolic associations with marriage. Cocktail rings broke the mould: they were designed to be bold statements of self-expression, worn on the right hand so there would be no mistaking them for an engagement ring.

The original cocktail rings of the 1920s and 30s typically featured a large ruby, emerald or sapphire, encircled by diamonds. This previously sold Ventrella ring is a stunning example of the classic design, with its bright pink sapphire and intricate diamond surround. Many cocktail rings from this era were influenced by the Art Deco aesthetic, with prestigious jewellers incorporating bold geometric shapes into their designs.

By the 1950s, cocktail rings had become an essential part of a woman’s wardrobe. This was the golden era of home entertaining, when cocktail parties had their own dress code, which invariably included a statement ring. During the decades since their inception, cocktail rings had evolved and ever more styles were available. This natural pearl and diamond dress ring showcases the use of different materials, pairing a natural bouton pearl with baguette and single-cut diamonds.

Having fallen out of favour in the 1960s and 70s, cocktail rings came back with a bang in the 80s. In a decade that was all about big, bold and brash design, it’s no surprise that cocktail rings were once again a coveted accessory. While tastes may have toned down, with colours less clashing and shoulders less padded, the cocktail ring shines on. Today, designers such as Dior create cocktail rings that echo the excess and abundance of a bygone era.

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3.

Star Quality

No red carpet look is complete without at least one cocktail ring. Icons of the silver screen, from Elizabeth Taylor to Cate Blanchett, have sported statement rings made for the limelight. In 2014, Beyoncé showed her love of cocktail rings—and of jeweller Lorrain Schwartz—by wearing seven of them to the Grammys. At the 2021 Oscars, Zendaya complemented her yellow Valentino dress with an equally eye-catching yellow diamond ring by Bulgari.

Perhaps the most famous cocktail ring is an emerald-cut aquamarine ring belonging to Princess Diana. The Asprey design was first seen in 1996, paired with Diana’s electric blue Versace gown at a fundraising gala. More than two decades later, the ring returned to the spotlight on the occasion of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s wedding, when the new Duchess of Sussex wore the ring to the evening reception.