1.

The History of Bulgari

In 1884, a Greek silversmith named Sotirio Bulgari opened a store in Rome, selling souvenirs to wealthy travellers on the Grand Tour. It was a success, and Bulgari set up more stores around the city, including the now legendary boutique on Via Condotti. He was joined by his sons in the early 20th century, and the family shifted its focus to jewellery. By the 1930s, Bulgari’s bold designs were starting to garner international recognition.

The BVLGARI logo first appeared in 1934, its use of the classical Roman alphabet cementing the brand’s Italian identity. It has since become a byword for Mediterranean glamour, and its designs were favoured by many famous figures in the era of ‘la dolce vita’ in the 1950s and 60s. While Bulgari was acquired by LMVH in 2011, the brand continues to design jewellery inspired by its Roman roots.   

2.

Iconic Designs

Serpenti

The first 'Serpenti' jewel was conceived during the late 1940s. As powerful symbols of rebirth, renewal and eternal love, Bulgari paid homage to Rome's ancient origins and the Eternal City's romantic association with Cleopatra. The complex techniques required to imitate the sinous form of a serpent coiling around a wrist were perfected during the 1960s and 1970s and today, the Serpenti collection is considered one of Bulgari's most iconic lines.

Tubogas

The gas-pipe technique known as ‘Tubogas’ was first developed in the 19th century and popularised during the 1940s. It involves interlocking two precious metal strips around a copper or wood core which is later removed, producing a flexible sprung coil to wrap around a wrist, neck or finger without the use of solder. This type of linking was perfected by Bulgari so skilfully, it has become an enduring feature of their designs.

Parentesi

Parentesi (“parenthesis” or “brackets” in Italian) was another design breakthrough for Bulgari. The inspiration for this collection was found, quite literally, on the streets of Rome: the design is based on the interlocking shapes of the paving stones found on Roman roads. Introduced in the 1980s, the collection met the need for versatile, ready-to-wear jewellery, with modular designs that could be adapted for any occasion.

3.

Star Quality

Bold, colourful and glamorous, Bulgari jewels share many qualities with the celebrities who wear them. The brand started to attract famous fans during the 1950s, when Hollywood studios discovered Rome as the perfect film set. Federico Fellini’s 1960 film La Dolce Vita defined an era of Mediterranean style and sensuality, and its star, Anita Ekberg, placed Bulgari squarely in the frame. “La Dolce Vita is Roma and Roma means Bulgari,” she pronounced.

During this era, Bulgari began to break away from the styles previously established by other European houses – their unrestrained and bold use of colour set Bulgari apart from other jewellers at this time and this remains one of the firms distinctive trademarks today.

Elizabeth Taylor and Bulgari

In the 1960s, the world’s most captivating film stars were pictured wearing Bulgari designs, from Sophia Loren to Audrey Hepburn, but perhaps the brand’s most enduring association is with Elizabeth Taylor, who was a lifelong devotee. In 1962, while filming Cleopatra just outside Rome, the star would spend her afternoons in Bulgari’s boutique on Via Condotti. She was often accompanied by her co-star Richard Burton as their romance blossomed, aided by the acquisition of many exquisite jewels. Burton is famously quoted as saying: "I introduced Liz to beer, she introduced me to Bulgari."

Today, Bulgari’s glamorous reputation shines on with brand ambassadors Zendaya and Anne Hathaway sporting statement pieces on and off the red carpet.

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4.

Collecting and Authenticity

Like all luxury brands, Bulgari has its imitators. When considering a piece of Bulgari jewellery, there are a few things to look for to determine if it is genuine. The distinctive logo is a good place to start: check that the item is stamped with the BVLGARI hallmark (with the letter V rather than U).

Real Bulgari jewellery uses the highest-quality metals and gemstones, and is crafted with scrupulous attention to detail. If anything about a piece feels ‘off’, whether that’s the colour or weight, the texture or finish, it could indicate a counterfeit. Finally, ensure the jewellery comes with a certificate of authenticity, and that the serial number on the certificate matches that on the item.

Fortunately, when you buy Bulgari jewellery from an auction house, you can be confident of its authenticity and provenance. Our specialists conduct meticulous checks of the item and its paperwork, and apply their in-depth knowledge of the market to advise on rarity and value.

5.

On The Market

With its inimitable style and spectacular stones, Bulgari jewellery continues to attract collectors around the world. Bonhams has been privileged to present important pieces from Bulgari’s iconic collections, including an extremely rare Trombino ring. Featuring a 5.30 carat fancy deep blue diamond, the ring sold for over £6 million inc premium at Bonhams’ Fine Jewellery sale in 2013.

Bulgari has also produced magnificent pieces outside of its famous collections, which occasionally appear on the secondary market. This impressive diamond and fancy vivid blue diamond crossover ring achieved nearly £1.9 million inc. premium in 2011, while this fine emerald and diamond ring sold for just under £600,000 inc. premium in 2021. Traditional animation (also called cel animation or hand-drawn animation) was the process used for most animated films of the 20th century.

Register to bid in London Jewels

Our auction on 13 June in London features jewellery by Bulgari, Boodles, Van Cleef & Arpels and more.

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