Collecting 101

1.

On the Rise

While Scottish distilleries have been world renowned for centuries, Japanese whisky makers are still considered fledglings by comparison, even though the country has been making the spirit since the 1920s.

The oldest distillery in Japan, Yamazaki, dates back to 1923 when it was built in the suburbs of Kyoto, in an area famous for the quality of its water. Though many distilleries still import their ingredients from Scotland, the distilling process gives Japanese whisky its own unique taste, thanks to the quality of the water, the wood used for the aging barrels and even the shape of the distilling stills.

Today, there are nine active distilleries throughout Japan, from Hokkaido in the north to Hyogo in the south including Yamazaki and Yoichi.

Author and whisky fanatic Stefan Van Eycken was one of the key experts who put Japanese whisky on the map. He moved to Japan in 2000 and has been following the developments on the Japanese whisky scene ever since. His book Whisky Rising, The Definitive Guide to the Finest Whiskies and Distillers of Japan is an excellent introduction to the world of Japanese whisky.

2.

Scotland vs. Japan

Until fairly recently, the ingredients and process for making whisky in Japan were the same as those in Scotland. In order to replicate authentic Scotch flavour, most of the ingredients were imported directly from Scotland in the early stage of whisky making.

At the end of the Second World War native Mizunara oak wood was brought into whisky production due to a scarcity of imported casks. Mizunara is remarkably aromatic and, over time, adds complex notes such as sandalwood and cedar, but most significantly aloeswood, which is used as the base for the incense burned in Japanese temples.

With the downturn of the market in the 1980s, some distilleries were forced to source more ingredients locally as well as making their own pot stills, which allowed them to develop their own unique style that has become synonymous with Japanese whisky today.

3.

Record Breakers

As the first and oldest distillery in Japan, Yamazaki embodies the history of Japanese whisky. It holds the world record for the most expensive bottle of Japanese whisky which—at 50 years old—achieved over HK$3 million (around £320,000) at auction in 2018. Bonhams also holds the record for the highest selling collection of Japanese whisky, with the Hanyu Ichiro's Malt Full Cards Series selling for more than HK$7million (over £750,000) at auction in 2019.

Take the Yamazaki-50-year-old-Third Edition as an example: it was released in 2011 for ¥1,000,000 (over £7,500), and was first auctioned by Bonhams in 2014 for over HK$245,000. After two years, it was sold for HK$588,000 and again in 2018 for HK$1,470,000 (around £153,000).

4.

The Taste Test

While many buyers will be collecting for investment, this should not discourage one from drinking one’s Japanese whisky with friends to appreciate the unique flavour.

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5.

Collecting Whisky

While the price tags might seem daunting to those new to collecting, whisky enthusiasts shouldn’t be put off. Unlike Scotch, bottle age is less important with Japanese whisky and more affordable bottles, such as a 12 year old Yamazaki or a 15 year old Yoichi, can start from around HK$3,000–5,000 (£320–540), while vintage Karuizawas could reach more than HK$100,000 (£11,000). Karuizawa and Hanyu are particularly popular among collectors as the distilleries were demolished in the 2000s and their bottles have now become part of ‘a legacy’.

Of course whilst a fancy label might help, distillery and cask type are two major factors that matter when collecting whisky so make sure you do your research before you buy.