5 Things To Know About Hermès

1.

The History of Hermès

The Hermès logo – a duc carriage and horse – serves as a reminder of the brand's equestrian roots. It was established by Thierry Hermès, a bridle-maker who set up a workshop in Paris in 1837. In 1880, his son, Charles-Émile, moved the shop to 24 Rue Du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, which remains the company's global headquarters to this day. The brand has been passed down through six generations of the family, all of whom have protected both its independence and its emphasis on exquisite craftsmanship.

In the beginning, Hermès made leather bags designed to carry saddles. In the 1920s, lines of handbags and travel bags were introduced and by the 1930s, the company started to produce fashion icons such as the Sac à dépêches, now known as 'The Kelly' in honour of Grace Kelly. The princess's preference for Hermès took the brand to new heights and, over the decades, it has cemented its reputation as the world's most luxurious brand.

2.

Coveted Styles

The Birkin Bag

As legend has it, Hermès' most exclusive handbag was born out of a chance encounter in 1983 between then CEO, Jean-Louis Dumas, and Jane Birkin. Seated next to each other on a flight, the pair discussed the ideal handbag - capacious yet elegant, practical enough for daytime and stylish enough for evening wear. And so, the famous Birkin Bag was conceived, but it was not an entirely new design, rather it was adapted from the larger ‘Haut à courroies’ or HAC bag, which Hermès had been making since the turn of the century.

Since its launch in 1984, the Birkin has broken records. It's the world's most expensive—and most televised—handbag. It's also incredibly hard to attain. As Samantha learns in Sex and the City, unless you have celebrity status, you're in for a long wait. Indeed, the Birkin has many famous devotees, from Kim Kardashian to Victoria Beckham and Cardi B. It also epitomises Hermès' commitment to craftsmanship: each Birkin is made by a single artisan and takes days to complete.

The Kelly Bag

In 1956, the Kelly bag - or Sac à dépêches, as it was then known - became an overnight success thanks to a single photograph. The image of Princess Grace Kelly holding the bag over her baby bump featured on the cover of Life magazine, and it quickly became a must-have accessory around the world. Renamed 'The Kelly' in 1977, this timeless classic holds an enduring appeal for collectors.

The Kelly comes in two styles: the Sellier and the Retourne. The Sellier is the more formal of the two, with a structured look, sharp edges and visible stitching. The Retourne is so called because the bag is 'reversed' - turned inside out - during the manufacturing process. As such, it doesn't have visible stitching and tends to be made of a softer leather, giving the bag a more casual feel.

The Constance Bag

Named after the designer's daughter, the Constance was launched in 1967. While it may not be quite as famous as its big sisters, this small-but-perfectly-formed bag is in high demand. It's loved for its bold design, centred around the clever H-shaped clasp, and its practicality, with an adjustable strap that can be worn on the shoulder or cross-body. Available in four sizes, and in a range of colours and leathers, the Constance is a staple for any self-respecting fashionista's wardrobe/ Instagram account.

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3.

Hermès Leather & Materials

Each Hermès handbag is evidence of its commitment to quality and creativity. Only the very finest leather makes it into the workshops, where it is treated with absolute respect by craftsmen who have completed a mandatory two years’ training. Each season, the brand updates its classic designs by introducing new leathers and colours and retiring others. This ensures that each iteration is only available in very small numbers for a limited amount of time, so collectors looking for a certain leather, such as the popular and now-discontinued Ardennes, will only find it on the secondary market.

When choosing which leather and colour you prefer, the secondary market offers an abundance of options. Leathers vary from the shiny vintage feel of Box, to the ultra-soft Swift and the structured, embossed Epsom. Exotic leathers, such as crocodile and lizard skin, are the most valuable; the Himalayan Birkin, made with specially treated crocodile skin, is the most expensive of them all. Named because of the gradation of colour from grey-brown into snowy white, it is the result of a painstaking and highly skilled dying process.

4.

Collecting & Care

When you fall in love with a vintage Hermès handbag, there are a couple of key things to consider before you take the plunge. Firstly, beware of counterfeits. It can be hard to detect a high-quality fake, but you can protect yourself by purchasing from a trusted source, such as an auction house or reputable dealer. Secondly, assess the bag’s condition as this will determine its resell value. If it has some minor wear, and is less than 30 years old, you can take it to Hermès for restoration and thereby increase its value.

Once you have purchased your handbag, it’s important to treat it with care, both when it’s on your arm and in your wardrobe. Before putting it away, gently buff with a microfibre cloth and stuff it lightly with some tissue paper to stop it losing its shape. Store it in a dust bag, or a pillowcase if you don’t have one, making sure the hardware is not pressed against the leather, as this can leave indents. Finally, keep hold of all the accessories the bag came with the padlock and keys, box, dust bag and rain jackets.

5.

On The Market

Hermès has maintained an incredibly strong brand equity over many decades and is able to increase its prices by an average of 14% each year. As iconic styles are hard to procure on the primary market, collectors look to the secondary market, where prices are also increasing year on year. A Hermès bag of any age will always be a good investment, but the highest prices are reserved for new bags that haven’t been used.

The price of a Birkin or a Kelly will fluctuate according to current trends. Micro bags are having a moment and are fetching higher prices than standard sizes. In October 2022, this charming Mini Kelly II 20 – considerably smaller than the standard 32 – sold for £35,580 inc. premium. Exotic leathers and bright colours are also particularly popular right now, as evidenced by the £38,100 sale price inc. premium of this striking Shiny Bleu Colvert Porosus Crocodile Birkin, in July 2022.