1.

Brand and Type

For new collectors, we recommend beginning with the larger, established watchmakers. Rolex and Patek Philippe are two of the most sought-after brands for a reason: they have an impeccable record of producing high-quality timepieces, generation after generation. A Rolex is always a safe bet, as there is intrinsic value in the brand name, regardless of fluctuations in the market. There are several other renowned and reliable names to keep in mind, including Audemars Piguet, Breguet, and Vacheron Constantin. With these brands, you can be reassured by the historical record of how the watches have performed on the secondary market.

As you become a more experienced collector, you may wish to look beyond the big brands, seeking out more esoteric, independent watchmakers. If you find that your passion is for rare and complex movements, it is exciting to see where your research leads you. Take your time, talk to experts as you go, and you can discover unexpected treasures.

Thinking of selling your wristwatch? Submit your piece online for a free auction estimate.

2.

Condition

When a watch catches your eye, the first thing to consider is its condition. The simplest guideline is to look for a vintage watch that is entirely original, or at least one whose dial, movement and case have not been altered. Beyond that, opinion varies about how best to preserve a watch.

Generally, a watch that has been left unpolished is preferable, but this is a matter of personal choice. For our specialist, the most important thing is that the watch maintains its original shape and crisp edges; when buying at auction make sure to always read the condition report for a true understanding of the watch's history and condition.

In the case of a tool watch (one designed for a specific purpose), some restoration should not deter a buyer, rather it can help to tell the story of that particular timepiece. Such is the case with this 1979 Rolex Comex Sea Dweller sold in London, New Bond Street in 2020: though the hands may have been replaced from many years of use by its original owner, a deep-sea diver, it went on to fetch £150,250 at auction.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is an example of a watch you would likely leave unpolished. Famous for the contrast of its polished and brushed surfaces, the finishing on this watch is so complex that any intervention risks ruining its distinctive appearance.

3.

Value

The question of a watch’s worth is one without a definitive answer. So much of what determines the value of a watch can be based on market trends, but if you look beyond the hype, and prize ingenuity over excess, you can find watches of horological significance without inflated valuations.

Take the Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Automatique: a technical masterpiece, it has huge value to those interested in the history of horology as the world's first automatic watch with tourbillon. This model may not fetch record breaking prices at auction, but its horological significance cannot be overstated. Think about what it is that you love, and consider what a watch is worth to you.

To understand a watch’s market value, it’s important to do your research. It’s easy to compare prices online, and auction results are a good place to start. The more sources you consult, the more accurate an idea you will get. If you are offered a watch that’s drastically less expensive than what you’re seeing online, then it probably is too good to be true.

4.

Source

Could you spot a fake? However discerning a collector may be, it can be very difficult for the untrained eye to tell a good reproduction from the real thing. That’s why it’s so important to seek out a trusted source. If you’re buying a new watch, it’s best to go through an authorised retailer, whereas for vintage and pre-owned pieces we recommend you choose an established auction house or a reputable dealer. Auctions present an opportunity to speak with some of the world's leading experts in their fields who will be at your disposal and happy to advise you so you can bid with confidence.

Most vintage watches won’t come with their original boxes or paperwork, which is not an issue if you’re buying a watch from a reputable source: you can trust that it’s genuine and you should get a better price. If your watch does come with any accompaniments, they don’t guarantee authenticity, but they do help confirm the provenance of the piece. They can also add value, so it’s certainly worth holding on to them if you're planning to sell your watch later on.

5.

Taste

According to James Bond author Ian Fleming, “A gentleman’s choice of timepiece says as much about him as does his Saville Row suit.”

Indeed, a watch is a particularly personal item. Rather than following fashion, keep an open mind and wait for a watch that sparks something in you. There are endless watches to choose from, so keep looking until you find what excites you and be open to exploring brands that may be new to you. It may be the understated excellence of a Lange chronograph – this prestigious but not instantly recognised brand produces some of the finest watches on the market today. Or perhaps you’re looking for a conversation starter, such as the bold and beautiful Heuer “Skipperera".

Whatever your taste, it is a lifelong thrill to build a collection of timepieces that are a reflection of you.