A Closer Look

JD. Okhai Ojeikere (Nigerian, 1930-2014) applied the skills he developed as a photojournalist to create artwork that oscillates between documentary photography and fine art. Hair served as a particularly compelling subject for the photographer and became his subject of focus to symbolize rich Nigerian culture and ancestral history.

Ahead of our Modern and Contemporary Art and Photography from Africa and the Diaspora auction on 27 July in New York, we sat down with Charlotte Mensah, influential award-winning British/Ghanaian hairstylist, to hear about her practice and her reflection on Ojeikere's photograph of a model's hair.

Lot 28. J.D. 'Okhai Ojeikere, Untitled. Estimate: $4,000 - $6,000

The present work belongs to J. D. 'Okhai Ojeikere's most acclaimed series, Hairstyles. Beginning as a personal project in 1968, the series documented the rich history of Nigerian hairstyles that developed in the wake of the Nigerian Independence in 1960. Previously, indigenous hairstyles had been suppressed under colonial rule while Eurocentric beauty standards had been championed. Now with Nigeria's cultural revivalism, women use hair as a powerful tool to publicly reassert a distinctly postcolonial West African identity.

Ojeikere travelled across Nigeria searching for models to feature in his photographs. He worked with stylists to recreate the elaborate coiffures, the construction of which he compared to artmaking practices. Over four decades, he amassed close to 2,000 negatives which serve as a record of the diverse hairstyle practices found across the country. Accordingly, Ojeikere established the convention of shooting the models' heads either from behind or in profile to highlight the sculptural characteristics of the elaborate hairstyles.

^{Hairstyles are an intricate part of identity, and the way we present ourselves to the world.}
- Charlotte Mensah

Hair threading is a technique of wrapping sectioned hair with black thread. All the styles are three dimensional and are a combination of patterns etched on the scalp and threaded strands which are raised from the scalp.

This is 'the pineapple' style, in reference to 'the pineapple pod-like pattern' formed by the twists of hair. This hairstyle was worn for casual events and office work.

The sculptural shape of someone's profile, the curves of the scalp, and the length of hair all have to be considered for threading. These factors all determine either the simplicity or complexity of the style.

^{All of these hairstyles are ephemeral. I want my photographs to be noteworthy traces of them. I always wanted to record moments of beauty, moments of knowledge.}
- J.D. 'Okhai Ojeikere

Charlotte Mensah is the founder and artistic director of The Hair Lounge, the boundary pushing hair salon on London’s Portobello Road. In a career spanning close to three decades, Charlotte has won numerous awards, including British Hairdressing Awards Afro Hairstylist of the Year, three times. She began her foray into the hairstyling world by honing her skills under the watchful eye of Winston Issac, otherwise known as "The Godfather of British Afro Hairdressing". In 1999, with funding awarded by The Prince’s Trust, Charlotte set up her own salon, the aforementioned Hair Lounge. Today, her modern approach to afro hair care is lauded by industry insiders and tastemakers.

What does hair and the practice of styling mean to you?

Having your hair done is a form of therapy. We go to the gym to perfect our bodies, we go to the therapist to work on our minds, and we go to the hairdressers to accentuate our beauty via our hair. It's a time to relax and talk if you need to, and also to be with family.

Ojeikere was clearly fascinated with the skill and artistry behind styling hair. On the flip side, how do you feel about photography considering your experience working on editorial shoots?

Having creative control during editorial shoots is important; I love producing images that tell a story. By drawing from my rich heritage working on complex and unique styles with different hair types, I present them all as art forms. Hairstyles are an intricate part of identity, and the way we present ourselves to the world.

Photography is a powerful tool; do you think it’s important for there to be a record of your work?

Having a record of my work keeps my culture and legacy alive. Remembering the past is key, but also being able to document the rapid changes we’re seeing within black culture in real time. We all have a role to play in that.

Given that we live in such a visual age, what is influencing your own practice today and does art have an impact on your own work?

Art has a major part in my work, but it’s definitely the next generation. It's beautiful to see them embracing who they are, honouring and celebrating themselves and their ancestors through self-expression. We have a lot to learn from them. I'm also deeply inspired by travels back and forth to Africa. To my native Ghana and further afield to other countries that contribute to the Black Hair experience. All of our histories are rich, as are our skills and techniques - all of which inspire my hair creations.

Browse more photographs and register before 27 July to take part in this auction and bring home an iconic photograph.

Contact Helene.Love-Allotey@bonhams.com with auction inquiries.