Happy Valleys

Bhutan is known for its Gross National Happiness Index. How to increase this? Well, what about making wine. Jancis Robinson reports on a new enterprise as Bhutan Wine | The Historical First Vintage opens for bidding

A week in Bhutan at the end of August 2024 was probably the most exciting adventure that wine has taken me on. I was there to see the progress of the fledgling Bhutan Wine Company, which was extraordinary. But of course, as anyone who has made the trip will know, the country itself is delightfully unique.

A small country sandwiched between two global superpowers India and China has somehow managed to establish a strong identity entirely independent of either. It helps of course that the landscape is stunning, a series of Himalayan valleys with fast-flowing rivers (handy for providing  useful Indian income in exchange for hydro-electric power). Most towns are overlooked by atmospheric dzongs, distinctive and well-preserved medieval monastic fortresses, which now double as local government offices. The fact that the Bhutanese wear traditional costume – the men in voluminous, textured, belted robes that end at the knee with knee-length black socks and the women in floor-length dresses and short silk jackets – also distinguish the country enormously.

The other national characteristic for which Bhutan has become famous is its Gross National Happiness index, a term coined in the late 1970s by Jigme Singye Wangchuck, the father of the current king, when asked at an international conference what his country’s Gross Domestic Product was. Off the cuff he asserted that GNH was far more important than GDP, and indeed the Bhutanese do seem to be a contented nation. The population’s happiness is regularly surveyed. That king insisted the country become a democracy but there is still clearly huge respect and affection for the royal family and its attempt to steer a prosperous future for the country in a way that makes the most of what it has to offer, heavily influenced by Buddhism.

“Men in voluminous, textured, belted robes and women in floor-length dresses and short silk jackets also distinguish the country

Buddhism is the dominant religion and there are prayer flags everywhere. Traditional archery, rather charmingly, is the national sport, with long, narrow fields on the banks of the rivers devoted to the locals’ passion for it. The stylishly modern wine bar in the capital Thimphu opened recently by the Bhutan Wine Company in an effort to start a wine culture in the country is located just next door to an archery shop.

“Traditional archery, rather charmingly, is the national sport, with long, narrow fields devoted to the locals’ passion for it”

The idea of trying to grow grapevines on the country’s extremely varied terroirs came from Mike Juergens, a wine-besotted partner of Deloitte, the financial consulting company, and Ann Cross. Mike, who is not short of enthusiasm, first went to Bhutan in 2017. And somehow he managed to enthuse the highest echelons of Bhutanese government that this was a good idea – and at such speed that the first vines went into the ground two years later in 2019.

Perhaps this adventurous initiative was so warmly received because it echoed the outward-looking strategy for the country of the Oxford-educated, 44-year-old ruler, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck. The king is busy planning the Gelephu Mindfulness City on the southern border with India where, according to The Economist, he plans to "house a million people, including digital nomads, Buddhist pilgrims, crypto entrepreneurs and wealthy expatriates."

Those keenly anticipated newcomers are going to want to drink something with the chilli-based cuisine of Bhutan – and the local, cereal-based, homemade ara spirit is unlikely to satisfy them.

The government has accordingly backed the Bhutan Wine Company to the extent of actually donating the land needed for vineyards, which has had an unusual effect. Unlike most new wine projects I have encountered, these vineyards are not established according to fevered prospecting, measuring climate data and conducting detailed soil sampling. So far in Bhutan, vines have been planted wherever suitable land has been donated, as agreed by local government officials. Not that Juergens accepts every bit of land proffered, as I saw first-hand on my visit, but the unusual official policy has resulted in a wild array of elevations, aspects, soil types and grape varieties.

“The greatest thrill for me was tasting the first few wines which really do show great promise”

Having arrived in Bhutan just in time for the second grape harvest, I visited four of the company’s young vineyards, including one of the highest in the world, and saw three prospective sites for new ones. Most were extremely difficult to access but the Bhutanese looking after them were clearly devoted to, and proud of, the vines in their charge. And the grapes still on the vines looked in great shape thanks to the unpolluted atmosphere in which they were growing. Juergens has a viticultural advisor in the shape of Russell Moss who has lectured on the subject at Cornell and has also advised projects in Oregon and Burgundy.

He has also managed to persuade Matt Brain, a respected Napa Valley winemaker who has also lectured on winemaking and vine-growing in California, to take on the position of winemaker at the Thimphu winery. By a delightful coincidence, Brain was about to take off from the US for Nepal when recruited; it’s no surprise that Juergens believes the Bhutanese wine project is blessed from above.

The greatest thrill for me was tasting the first few wines which really do show great promise, with pure varietal flavours and excellent balance. I tasted very creditable examples of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Malbec and Syrah as well as picking some convincingly ripe, cassis-like Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in one vineyard. At the moment everything is experimental. The Bhutan Wine Company, whose aim is "to bottle the essence of Bhutan" just want to work out what works where.

Bhutan provides an extraordinary example of wine production being built from scratch with backing from an enlightened government. 

Jancis Robinson writes for both the Financial Times and JancisRobinson.com and is a voluntary member of the advisory board of the Bhutan Wine Company.

Bhutan Wine: The Historical First Vintage | Bonhams Skinner | Online, April 3-24

For enquiries, contact Amayès Aouli on amayes.aouli@bonhams.com or +33147278516