Collecting 101
5 Things to Know About Boodles

Boodles is a British success story with a remarkable heritage. Steered by six generations of the same family, it has blossomed from being a local jewellery retailer to a design-led luxury brand. Here, we uncover the company’s history and offer a glimpse into its most sought-after creations. Illustrated are the hightlights sold at Bonhams.
1.
The History of Boodles
The origins of Boodles can be traced back to 1798 when the clockmaker Thomas Kirk established a business in Hull. The operation expanded to include jewellery and silverware, with a branch opening in Liverpool in 1889, where Henry Wainwright ran their prestigious premises at 7 Parker Street. By 1898, he became the owner of the firm’s Liverpool branch and Boodles remains in the family to this day.
In 1910, the firm acquired another Liverpool jeweller, Boodle & Dunthorne, and by the mid-20th century, the company was receiving prestigious commissions – one of the most important was the solid silver stand that Boodle & Dunthorne designed and produced for one of Princess Elizabeth’s wedding cakes in 1947. They also created the gold trophy for the Grand National in 1958. The business continued to flourish, with more stores opening in Chester in 1965, Manchester in 1980 and eventually London in 1987, which marked a defining moment for the company. Soon afterwards, Boodle & Dunthorne began designing their own bespoke jewels. In 2004, the firm rebranded and became known simply as ‘Boodles’, a name which is now synonymous with luxury British design.
Looking to buy Boodles jewellery? Our Jewellery specialists can help you find the right piece at auction or via a private sale. Contact us.
2.
Distinguished Designs
Since Boodles launched their first high jewellery collection in 2008, the firm has continued to innovate and introduce new designs every two years. Here, we showcase a few of their most celebrated collections.
Ashoka
The original Ashoka-cut diamond weighed 41.37 carats and was assessed D colour, Flawless clarity. Sourced from the highly coveted Golconda mine in India, this diamond was purchased by Harry Winston. The diamond was named after Ashoka the Great who ruled India during the 3rd century BC. Legend has it that after taking stock of the death and destruction that his army had caused in Kalinga, the remorse he felt was so acute that he became a pacifist and promoted the spread of Buddhism, believing that the true path to enlightenment could only be achieved through tranquillity. Hence the name of the original D, Flawless, Ashoka-cut diamond.
The New York diamantaire, William Goldberg, developed and patented the Ashoka-cut in the year 2000 and today, Boodles are the only British jeweller to offer Ashoka-cut diamonds for sale. This cut displays an additional five facets to the 57 facets of a brilliant-cut, requiring the rough un-cut diamond to be larger and longer than average. Ashoka-cuts are therefore known for their typically larger ‘spread’, which means the cut and polished stone appears larger when viewed face-up. Ashoka-cut diamonds are found in the most exclusive designs, such as this two-stone fancy coloured diamond and diamond ring, sold by Bonhams for £598,750 inc. premium.
Raindance
Since its inception in 2002, the ‘Raindance’ ring has become a signature jewel for Boodles. The design reflects the pattern of sprinkled raindrops with artfully placed diamonds and precious stones. In 2020, a ‘Raindance’ ring featuring pink-tinted diamonds sold at Bonhams for £19,000 inc. premium. Such is the popularity of the piece, that a Raindance ring features in the V&A’s permanent collection as an example of ‘iconic British jewellery design’.
Limited Edition Collections:
Angels Garland, Castaway, and Wonderland
The London Jewels sale happened on the 24th of April, 2023 featured a private collection of Boodles jewellery, with guide prices ranging from £3,000-5,000 up to £65,000-85,000. This single-owner property includes coveted pieces from Boodles’ ‘Angels Garland’, ‘Castaway’ and ‘Wonderland’ collections – limited editions that are often no longer in production.
The diamond swan cuff from the ‘Wonderland’ collection celebrates the natural world and Bonhams has sold another example featuring a phoenix in the past. The ‘Castaway’ gem-set collar necklace, bracelet and earrings, combines a vibrant mix of pear-shaped aquamarines, peridots, heliodors, tourmalines and garnets in an organic arrangement, evoking a paradise island, while each garland of marquise-cut diamond buds in the necklace, bracelet and pair of pendant earrings from the ‘Angels Garland’ collection presents an opportunity to acquire a timeless and elegant suite of Boodles jewellery that is currently no longer in production.
3.
Star Quality
Each year, the brand hosts and sponsors around 150 events across the UK and beyond, attracting celebrity, society and royal guests alike, cementing their status as a British institution. Just as Boodles enjoys close associations with celebrities, one of their designs has become a star in its own right. In 2014, their ‘Greenfire’ emerald necklace was the subject of a Channel 4 documentary. The film follows the painstaking creation of Boodles’ “million-pound necklace”, which boasts 18 rare Colombian emeralds. The necklace returned to the spotlight in 2021, when it was worn by Helen Mirren in Fast & Furious 9.
4.
On the Market
The market for jewellery by Boodles has seen a steady rise since the early 2000s and it continues to grow with the expansion of the brand. Highlights amongst the results achieved by Bonhams are a Coloured Diamond and Diamond Ring, which sold for £79,775 inc. premium, a Fancy Intense Blue diamond ring which sold for £284,750 inc. premium, an Ashoka-cut Diamond Single-Stone Ring, which achieved £325,062.50 inc. premium and a Diamond Single-Stone Ring with an oval-cut diamond, which realised £392,750 inc. premium.
5.
Collecting Boodles
At auction, bidding for Boodles jewellery can be extremely competitive as the brand has expanded significantly in recent years. Their reputation for quality and exceptional client care has gone from strength to strength, resulting in a loyal and dedicated following that is increasingly international.
For collectors of jewellery by heritage brands such as Boodles, buying from an auction house offers several advantages as coveted designs that are no longer in production and one-of-a-kind bespoke pieces can be found.
At Bonhams, our in-house specialists apply their extensive knowledge of the jewellery market to advise buyers on the best Boodles pieces to suit their tastes, budgets and collection goals. Detailed images, descriptions and condition reports are also provided, enabling buyers to bid with confidence for aspirational jewels by this internationally respected and quintessentially British brand.

Boodles: Gem-Set 'Castaway' Pendent Earrings, 2006. Sold for £3,825 inc. premium.
Boodles: Gem-Set 'Castaway' Pendent Earrings, 2006. Sold for £3,825 inc. premium.

Boodles: Diamond Single-Stone Ring. Sold for £75,900 inc. premium.
Boodles: Diamond Single-Stone Ring. Sold for £75,900 inc. premium.

Boodles: Diamond 'Chalk Streams' Pendent Earrings, 2018. Sold for £14,080 inc. premium.
Boodles: Diamond 'Chalk Streams' Pendent Earrings, 2018. Sold for £14,080 inc. premium.

Boodles & Dunthorne: Diamond Earstuds, 2006. Sold for £20,480 inc. premium.
Boodles & Dunthorne: Diamond Earstuds, 2006. Sold for £20,480 inc. premium.

Boodles: Diamond Line Necklace And Bracelet, 2004. Sold for £31,800 inc. premium.
Boodles: Diamond Line Necklace And Bracelet, 2004. Sold for £31,800 inc. premium.
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